Geese can be difficult to incubate and hatch compared to chickens and ducks. Ideally the incubating is left to a hen, duck, goose, or other broody bird, but luck doesn’t always provide a broody when you need one. Goslings make up for their difficult hatching by being incredibly easy to raise.
Goose Egg Collection and Storage
Goose eggs should be collected daily for incubating in an incubator. Use a pencil to label the eggs with the date and mark one side with an X and the other with an O. You can collect eggs and store them at room temperature for up to 10 days. If you need to collect eggs for a longer period of time the eggs are best stored in a fridge until you need to hatch them. You will have poorer hatching rates from refrigerated eggs, but better than if they were stored at room temperature for a longer period of time.
Eggs should be turned a minimum of 3 times daily before you set them in an incubator or under a broody. Simply turn the eggs so either the X or O is showing, whichever was previously facing down. Goose eggs should be stored laying flat and not upright in a carton.
When you’re ready to start incubating the eggs you can place them under a broody or into your incubator. The eggs need to kept on their sides during incubation and should never be placed upright in an incubator.
I use this (relatively) cheap and easy to clean incubator for hatching. My preferred incubator for the actual incubation process is a trusty old Brinsea Octagon 20, which can fit up to 9 goose eggs.
Temperature for Incubating Goose Eggs
Goose eggs need to be incubated at 99.5F for the duration of incubating. After lock down you should lower the temp to 98-99F to increase the oxygen levels for the goslings. Once they have internally pipped they will start using their lungs to breath air.
Humidity
The humidity levels you need will vary greatly depending on your local and household climate. It’s best to track air cell size by tracing the outline of the air cell at your weekly candling OR you can weigh the egg to make sure it is losing weight properly. You’ll be looking for an overall weight loss of 16%.
For my own hatching I need to run the incubator around 30% humidity for the first 26 days and then increase to about 60% for lock down.
Learn how to tell the gender of your geese with this handy post.
Cooling and Misting
Starting at day 8, waterfowl eggs benefit from a daily cooling and misting. Take the eggs out of the incubator, mist lightly with cool water, and then allow the eggs to cool for 10 minutes. Place back in the warm incubator after the 10 minutes has elapsed. On days 15 – 21, eggs should be cooled for 15 minutes. From days 22-25, the eggs should be cooled for 20 minutes.
The cooling and misting process mimics when the mother goose gets off the nest and returns wet from a swim.
Incubation Period
Geese need to incubate for anywhere between 28 to 35 days. I know, that’s quite a range! Almost all of my goslings end up hatching on day 32, but sometimes I have some hatch earlier or later.
You’ll need to place your eggs into lock down on day 26. This is where you increase humidity and stop messing with the eggs until they’ve hatched. At this point opening the incubator can cause dangerous humidity drops that can result in your babies being shrink-wrapped (membrane dries on them and they can’t move to hatch). Moving the eggs during this time can result in the goslings failing to get in the proper position to hatch. Basically just don’t touch the eggs!
Hatching
Yay! You hear little peeps coming from the incubator and notice one or more of the eggs have a tiny crack (external pip) in the shell. You might be tempted to open the incubator at this point and pick at the eggs to “help” them hatch. Don’t!
Once goslings have made an external pip they rest and absorb the yolk into their abdomen. During this time the blood-filled membrane surrounding them starts shunting the blood back into the gosling. Picking at the shell to “help” during this time can be fatal to your gosling! Tearing that membrane, even by accident, will result in blood less that can easily kill your gosling. “Helping” the gosling to hatch too soon (after it’s blood supply has reabsorbed) can result in it coming out of the egg before absorbing all of it’s yolk sac – which, you guessed it, will kill it. Don’t touch the eggs!
Once the gosling has reabsorbed the blood from the membrane and the yolk into it’s abdomen it’s ready to hatch. It will start zipping next, which is where it starts chipping the egg in a roughly horizontal line across the circumference of the egg. They usually take lots of breaks during this time so don’t panic if they stop for a bit.
After the gosling zips the egg it will push the shell apart and hatch. It will be wet, wobbly, and sort of weak. Just leave it alone to dry and rest in the warm incubator. Usually by 24 hours old hatchlings are completely fluffed up and moving around easily. At this point you should move them to a brooder if all of the eggs have hatched. If you still have eggs in the process of hatching, go ahead and leave everyone in the incubator for a little longer. The absorbed yolk sac will feed the goslings for up to 3 days.
I have read and used few articles about incubating & hatching geese, BUT THIS IS THE ONLY one you should take as a complete quide – works perfectly and I am happy to I found this one. Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge. Thank you xxx
Thank you for the kind words and I’m glad that you found my guide useful!
Our goose has already started laying, early for Michigan. I have collected 15 today and they are dirty. Should I wipe them off with a dry towel or wet one before sticking them in an incubator?
You can wipe them off gently with a dry towel. Anything wet risks washing off the bloom that helps prevent bacteria from getting into the egg.
By far the most informative guide on hatching goose eggs I could find! Thank you for taking the time to write this up.
No problem!
What is the best incubator for incubating goose eggs
The very best option is a broody bird – goose, duck, muscovy, or even a chicken. However, I use a Brinsea incubator (a discontinued Octagon 20) which can hold 9 goose eggs. Brinsea is a very good brand and has a number of different incubators for different budgets and needs. I also have a much cheaper Janoel 12 that I like to use for hatching because it’s easier to take apart and disinfect.
I am using an incubator from my school to hatch the chicken eggs that were started before schools were closed. I was planning to use it to try to hatch geese eggs. It has a self turner. Is that ok to use or would it be better to take that out and hand turn?
It’s going to depend on the type of self-turner and how strong it is. If it’s the type that cups the eggs and holds them upright then you’ll need to remove it. If it allows eggs to lay flat you can try it, but check to make sure it’s strong enough to actually turn the goose eggs.